I also added this heavy ash log from my wood pile to weight the base down more. It seems to be surprisingly accurate so far, though I've just been making test cuts, not building furniture.Īs I mentioned before, I made one of the panels of the base removable so I can access it for dust collection. This way there is a very thin line noting the face of the fence. I also scored a line in the acrylic with a utility knife, marked over it with a Sharpie and then wiped off the excess. The little piece of acrylic has a slot cut in it so I can slide it back and forth for micro adjustment. To do this I moved the fence right next to the blade, and marked a spot for the tape measure to start at "zero". I also made the small little marker you see out of acrylic to measure for the distance from the fence to the blade. I used some spray adhesive to glue it down, and then put a couple coats of water based poly over the top to protect it from stuffing or tearing. I thought I was going to have to go out and buy a flat, self-adhesive tape measure, but then I found a paper Ikea tape in my bedroom that worked perfect. There's a cam clamp lever the presses against a pressure plate to pull the fence tight to the rail. Again, the basic design of this is John Heisz's wooden table saw fence. I've taken to calling it a Franken-fence because I've been putting it together and upgrading/repairing it as I go. This is still kind of a work in progress.
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